By Mary Hennigan for The Arkansas Advocate.
Broadcast version by Freda Ross for Arkansas News Service reporting for The Arkansas Advocate-Winthrop Rockefeller Foundation-Public News Service Collaboration.
More than 567,000 Arkansans — 18.6% of the state’s total population — know what it’s like to experience food insecurity and struggle to find access to healthy food.
Arkansas’ food insecurity rate in 2022 was the second highest in the nation, with only Mississippi in front by 0.2%. This top two pairing is not new, however, as Arkansas has trailed Mississippi for the last decade, according to Feeding America data released in May.
Feeding America was established as a national nonprofit in the 1960s and is part of a network that organizes with food banks and other meal assistance programs, including the Arkansas Food Bank. The nonprofit has mapped food insecurity data down to the county level for more than a decade; the most recent information reports findings from 2022.
The food insecurity rate in Arkansas has been steadily increasing since 2020, and the 2022 rate was the highest it’s reached in five years, according to Feeding America. Arkansas also ranked second nationwide for the highest food insecurity rate among children, with nearly one in four children lacking access to healthy options.
“It’s heartbreaking,” said Brian Burton, CEO of the Arkansas Food Bank. “I can’t say I’m surprised because there’s been sort of a vortex of pressures and economic events … just the inflation that has put lower income families in a real bind in our country. They can’t catch a break.”
Burton said he thinks the increased food insecurity rate could be related to the rising cost of groceries and the loss of additional assistance since the COVID-19 public health emergency ended.
“I think we are a state that has under participated in public assistance programs,” Burton said. “We’re one of the lowest participants in the Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program (SNAP), and that is self-inflicted harm.”
Last year the Arkansas Legislature approved a bill that raised the asset limit for SNAP, commonly referred to as food stamps, from $2,250 for most families to $6,000. This change expanded the qualifications for people in need, but not to its originally intended level.
The bill initially sought to raise the limit to $12,000, but sponsor Sen. Jonathan Dismang, R-Searcy, lowered it to have a stronger chance of approval. At the time, Dismang said he thought $6,000 was too low and discouraged poor Arkansans from saving enough money to become financially stable.
Having any SNAP asset limit is a barrier for folks, Burton said. He said he would rather see the limit be removed entirely so it wouldn’t be a “hindrance to someone who’s trying to move out of poverty.”
The existing limit is one feature that could stop someone who falls in Arkansas’ ALICE (Asset Limited, Income Constrained, Employed) population from qualifying for assistance. The ALICE population includes people with income levels too high for programs like SNAP, but they still struggle to pay for their basic needs.
The Feeding America report isn’t limited to people who fall below the federal poverty level; it includes others who have difficulties accessing healthy food. Burton said the study is self reporting, which means more Arkansans than the reported 587,000 could be food insecure.
County snapshot
Every county in Arkansas reported a food insecurity rate higher than the national average of 13.5%, which Burton agreed shows that the issue is not dependent on rural or urban settings.
Searcy County, located in north central Arkansas, reported the highest overall rate at 24.5%.
Giezele Treat, director of the Searcy County Senior Center, was unsurprised to hear the county ranked first.
“It’s just sad,” Treat said. “We’re a poor county.”
Located in Marshall, any resident older than 60 can visit the senior center to receive a meal, Treat said. A staff dietician ensures the meals are well balanced and nutritional. Menu picks can include hamburgers and beef stroganoff with accompanying vegetables and bread, Treat said.
Staff also dispatches meals to about 70 households in Searcy County through Meals on Wheels, Treat said. Both hot and frozen meals are available to people who meet homebound criteria, meaning they physically can’t get food for themselves.
Burton, who has worked closely with people experiencing food insecurity for nearly three decades, said the toll it takes on one’s body is visible.
“It ages a person — the strain, anxiety and stress that are created by that constant worry,” he said. “The result of years of poor diets and nutrition when someone does not have sufficient resources to buy healthier, more expensive food … you see that shorten their life expectancy.”
Phillips County, located along the state’s eastern border, reported the highest rate of food insecurity among children with 45.8%, according to Feeding America.
Burton said children experiencing malnourishment are largely affected in the classroom.
“They are not as alert, their bodies are not developing to their potential, and it’s particularly harmful, I think, in the youngest years of physical development,” he said.
Feeding America also reported the food insecurity rate among Arkansas’ Black, Hispanic and white populations. The rates came in at 30%, 22% and 16%, respectively.
“One out of three of our African-American neighbors struggle with food insecurity,” Burton said. “That would be called an epidemic. It’s not just something that happened in the last year; I think this is a result of years and decades of people who have been marginalized, obstacles they’ve had to transcend and limited access to opportunity.”
Statewide efforts
Food insecurity doesn’t have a simple solution. Arkansas has a myriad of organizations and programs scattered across the state that help residents access food, including the Arkansas Food Bank and its participating pantries.
“It’s a complex problem, but we can all be a part of the solution,” Burton said. “We can all donate to our local food banks and our favorite charities that are doing heroic, life-changing work on the front lines.
Last September the Arkansas Rice Federation donated 240,000 pounds of rice to the Arkansas Food Bank. In November, Arkansas State University joined the fight against hunger and announced it partnered with Arkansas Hunters Feeding the Hungry to provide beef jerky snacks to school children.
The Arkansas Hunger Relief Alliance, a prominent food assistance nonprofit, addresses hunger by promoting nutrition education, securing funding, increasing out-of-school meal participation, advocating for food policy and more.
In January, Gov. Sarah Huckabee Sanders announced the state would participate in a federal food assistance program called the Summer Electronic Benefit Transfer. The program provides students’ families with money for meals while school is not in session. It starts in June.
“That’s a bright spot on the horizon,” Burton said. “That’s work that our own [U.S.] Sen. John Boozman helped bring about. … It’s a brand new program that could bring tens of millions of dollars into the state if everybody would participate in it.”
Mary Hennigan wrote this article for The Arkansas Advocate.
get more stories like this via email
As Colorado's fall harvest kicks into high gear, people participating in SNAP, the program formerly known as food stamps, can now get up to $60 per month added back to their EBT cards when they purchase fruits and vegetables at participating outlets, including farmer's markets.
MacKenzie Sehlke, executive director of Boulder County Farmers Markets, said the new pilot program makes it easier for more families to bring home locally-grown fruits and vegetables, and strengthen local food systems.
"These programs really allow families to access fresh produce," Sehlke explained. "It gives them some more parity in the market so that they can shop for those staples that their families want and need. And it also really supports local producers."
Colorado is one of three states to win U.S. Department of Agriculture grants to launch the pilot program, known as Colorado SNAP Produce Bonus. SNAP participants do not have to sign up, they just have to purchase healthy foods to get reimbursed up to $20 per transaction. So far, 34 farmers markets, food hubs and retail locations across the state offer the program directed by the Colorado Department of Human Services and Nourish Colorado.
The Valley Roots Food Hub based in the San Luis Valley connects local farmers and ranchers to SNAP and other customers through Colorado Supported Agriculture subscriptions, wholesale distribution and an online grocery store.
Al Stone, markets manager for the Valley Roots Food Hub, said SNAP participants can get produce, eggs and other staples, and tap Produce Bonus EBT dollars at their Mosca warehouse without paying a membership fee.
"You can buy from us as often or as little as you want," Stone noted. "Some folks buy from us on a weekly basis, and we're their main grocery store. They really love our service because we also offer home delivery."
Sehlke pointed out farmers markets allow customers to meet and build relationships with the people who grow the nutrient-dense fruits and vegetables they take home. She added they are family friendly events with lots to see, do, smell and taste.
"We offer local music at our farmer's markets," Sehlke emphasized. "We offer a variety of kids and family programming, including art-focused programming."
get more stories like this via email
By Daniel Breen and Josie Lenora for Little Rock Public Radio.
Broadcast version by Freda Ross for Arkansas News Service reporting for the Little Rock Public Radio-Winthrop Rockefeller Foundation-Public News Service Collaboration.
Several parts of Little Rock can be classified as “food deserts,” or neighborhoods that don't have easy access to a grocery store. Now, city officials are considering a new, at least to Little Rock, solution; a mobile grocery store.
If you stand at the intersection of Chenal Parkway and Bowman Road in west Little Rock, next to Best Buy and The Purple Cow, you’re within a mile of five grocery stores: Trader Joe’s, Whole Foods, Walmart, Sam's Club and a newly-minted Aldi.
But some streets in Little Rock aren’t within a mile of any grocery store. That’s called a food desert, and most of them are in lower-income neighborhoods of central and southwest Little Rock.
Being a mile away from a store may not seem like much, but if you have mobility challenges, or you're low on money, this mile can mean the difference between eating and being hungry.
Virgil Miller is on the Little Rock City Board of Directors. He represents Ward One, which covers downtown and encompasses several food deserts. Miller says he’s talked with constituents who come to him to ask: why am I not near a grocery store?
“Because, in the past, there were several grocery stores in the area. They’ve all closed and relocated,” Miller said.
At their core, grocery stores are businesses. They have to turn a profit, and companies say there just isn't a lot of money to be made in some of these neighborhoods. When the Kroger on Colonel Glenn Road closed in 2022, a representative from the company told the Arkansas Democrat-Gazette the store had “lost significant profit for many years and if left open, the losses are projected to get even worse going forward.”
Some neighborhoods are what’s called a food swamp. This means they may be near a McDonald’s or a convenience store, but the quality of food there is so low it can cause health problems down the line.
Little Rock Vice Mayor Kathy Webb has spent much of her career working to combat food deserts, serving on a state food desert task force and as executive director of the Arkansas Hunger Relief Alliance. What most people wanted was a brick-and-mortar store; but, when the team looked at what other communities were doing to fix the food desert problem, she realized that just building a grocery store doesn't always work.
“A nonprofit opened a grocery store in Baltimore, and we were very excited about it… it went out of business,” she said.
Webb said the grocery store was designed by consultants who had success in building supermarkets in suburban areas, but not ones in the inner city.
“They didn’t talk to the people in the neighborhood to find out what they wanted. They didn’t try to become part of the neighborhood.”
Both Miller and Webb heard that Memphis came up with a creative way to combat the food desert problem. And it seemed to work better.
“A mobile grocery store. It’s almost like an 18-wheeler that has been adapted to have an aisle in the middle of it, and on each side they have food,” Miller said.
The mobile grocery store has fresh produce and other staples. Sometimes, customers can order things on request. They move around neighborhoods stopping at two locations a day. Webb and Miller went on a “field trip” to see it in person.
“The nonprofit had developed relationships with the residents… and it’s much more than just a store,” Miller said.
The hope now is to bring a mobile grocery store like this to Little Rock. But the concept isn’t entirely new to the city.
Paul Kroger–no relation to the grocery store chain–is executive director of Vine & Village, a nonprofit based in Little Rock’s University District. They operate a weekly food distribution program called The Orchard, which serves hundreds of families and unsheltered people living in the 72204 ZIP code.
“People start lining up at about 7 in the morning back here with vehicles, and we start distributing at 1. The line will go serpentining through the parking lot like several blocks long,” he said. “We have a whole team of people out here treating it like an assembly line, giving them different things.”
Each Tuesday, a small army of volunteers comes in to run the drive-up program. But food is constantly coming in; Kroger says they keep as much as a quarter-million pounds of food and other household items on hand at any given time, donated from food banks, grocery stores and restaurants. But, Kroger says they’re not your typical food bank.
“Generally you get a box of food, mostly shelf-stable items, but here that’s the minority of what you get. The vast majority, maybe four or five boxes, 40 to 70 pounds each, of fresh fruit, vegetables, high-quality protein, that’s the emphasis here,” he said.
Back in 2016, then-Mayor Mark Stodola came to Vine & Village, asking them for help with the city’s food desert problem. Stodola’s solution sounds familiar–use an old city bus to distribute food to people who can’t travel to get it.
For several years, the bus, dubbed the Fresh2You Mobile Market, made the rounds of all public housing complexes in Little Rock and North Little Rock. They weren’t just focused on alleviating hunger, but ensuring that people were getting healthy, nutritious food in a sustainable way. Kroger says they offered free samples and recipe cards to customers, much like a traditional grocery store.
“So whatever the bus had for that day, they could pick up those items and they could have already tasted something. Could be a smoothie, could be a fresh salad, something that was pretty simple to do but would really be, not only healthy, but it’s gotta be tantalizing to your taste buds.”
Initially, they charged money and accepted public assistance benefits, but ultimately Kroger says they stopped charging.
“Not being able to really provide the volume of food that people really needed to change the course of their nutritional intake, it was just important that we give it for free. So that’s what we’d been doing for the last number of years until we were shut down by the pandemic,” Kroger said.
The Fresh2You Mobile Market pivoted during the COVID-19 pandemic, partnering with World Central Kitchen to distribute hot meals in place of school breakfasts and lunches. But Kroger says their equipment is aging, and the future of Fresh2You is uncertain.
He’s applying for a grant to buy a new bus, which will then likely focus on delivering food to two new micro home villages currently under construction, which will provide temporary housing to people experiencing chronic homelessness.
But even if the city does end up operating a mobile grocery store, as Kroger found out, the cost of food will remain a concern. Marquis Willis is the Chief Data Officer for the City of Little Rock, and has done research on local people living in food deserts. It showed that, yes, transportation was an issue, but there was a larger issue that's harder to solve.
“The bigger issue that we noticed, 63% of our respondents said that the cost of food was a bigger issue,” he said.
Vice Mayor Kathy Webb said that with all the money in the world she would approach the problem differently. She would build a lot of not-for-profit grocery stores and pay-what-you-want restaurants.
But money is an issue. So, she says, hopefully the mobile grocery store will go forward. Right now, it's in the procurement phase with plans to be finalized in the future.
Daniel Breen and Josie Lenora wrote this article for Little Rock Public Radio.
get more stories like this via email
A New York City nonprofit is helping communities fight food insecurity.
Rethink Food began in 2017 with the mission of taking excess food from top restaurants such as Eleven Madison Park to be redistributed to food-insecure communities across the city. Despite declines, post-pandemic food insecurity in the city remains high as one in nine families doesn't often have enough to eat.
Matt Jozwiak, founder and CEO of Rethink Food, said the organization filled a unique niche during the pandemic.
"There's not a lot of nonprofits that are working with, like, a soul-food restaurant in Harlem and a community center down the street," Jozwiak pointed out. "We were really ready and prepared even before the lockdown. We put together a plan to basically grant capital resources to small businesses to make meals for local community centers."
As beneficial as the group's work is, Jozwiak acknowledged some neighborhoods do not care for certain meals. He noted some areas might not care for couscous while others are not big on dairy-based dishes. The feedback has helped guide Rethink Food's work. He added they are branching out to work in other areas, such as developing medically tailored meals.
Beyond food excess, Rethink Food is looking to see how it can improve food procurement in New York City. The city has been seeking out ways to diversify its food procurement systems.
Ken Baker, culinary director for the group, said Rethink Food and the coalition of primarily independent, minority, women-owned restaurants they work with can do it.
"We know restaurants run on tight margins; us being the primary cudgel that holds that capacity in place, and then we subcontract out that capacity to restaurant partners," Baker explained. "(It) gives them a meaningful way to have a stakehold in their community and demonstrate their ability to compete with your big players."
The challenge in doing it is lacking trust in getting paid on time by the city. Reports showed the number of procurement contracts registered late has grown since 2021. For the first half of 2024, 77% of contracts were registered late, resulting in payment delays for numerous businesses.
get more stories like this via email